Travel Bug Bites Again!

We really did say Croatia was the last stop. And we really did have full intentions of planting our roots and staying put. But with the Montenegro border less than two hours away from our room by car, we figured we might as well get another stamp in our passports. We made our way through another couple of walled towns, one very similar to Dubrovnik except its walls were far larger and scaled the mountainside. Later, we got caught in a torrential downpour in Kotor, and found ourselves hopelessly wet as the tiny stone walled streets quickly transformed into rivers as rainfall spilled from rooftops and gushed from gutters. The remainder of Dubrovnik was remarkable, we made a number of day trips and went as far as we could for a full day in all directions. North, south, east and west. On one of our favorite trips, we caught a "water taxi" and headed over to the Island of Lokrum. Wow, just fifteen minutes from the shore. We had no idea such a Gem was awaiting us. We were immediately greeted by a wild Peacock, and after chasing him around to get the perfect picture, we soon realized they were all over the island and could hardly be kept out your cameras frame. They were literally everywhere, and we loved it. Shouting to females from cliffs, trees, picnic benches, you name it! These beautifully delicate birds had their captivating tail feather fans in full display. It was like national geographic right before our eyes as the males danced and shook their feathers, laboring for the attentions of a female. The island was surrounded with huge flat topped rocks, the perfect natural tanning beds jutting from the sea. And if you followed them around the coast you would quickly find the "nude beach." (still deserted this time of year) We explored vacant fortresses atop the island, and enjoyed drinks to the tune of a classic guitar, smoothly singing out velvety tunes through a single speaker Marshall amplifier in the shade. If it weren't for the no camping signs, we may have forfeited our indoor bed for a sleeping bag under the stars. This island was truly an experience all it's own. We found ourselves taking in all the culture possible in Croatia. Near our room we found an art exhibition, featuring the photographer Steven McCurry. You know his work, he is responsible for what has been regarded as the greatest photograph of all time. The Afghan Girl with the Haunting Green eyes.  We learned that Steven would do anything to capture his subjects, including dressing up in traditional garments, sewing film into his clothing, and travelling deep within the borders of conflict. We stood face to face with a vast number of life sized portraits that felt like they could see your soul. We visited other exhibits as well. The Croatian people are determined to remember what they gave up to earn their independence by way of the homeland war 1991-1994. The suffering was impossible to ignore as we walked through various war exhibits, The most thorough of which is located in a fortress in the heart of the battlefield atop Dubrovnik's mountainside. For me, I struggled the most with how recent all the pictures were. I was alive for this. I can remember Bosnia on the news. And here, were the photographs from the horrid stories I had almost forgotten. These war museums look nothing like the ww2 pictures I'm used to seeing that look, "comfortably dated" in my mind.  Reflecting conflicts from long before I traveled this earth. This was far too real... Captured in color, and as terrible as anything you can imagine.  Pat and Sarah